Frequently Asked Questions

Estimates often describe very different jobs. One price may include thorough scraping, caulking, spot priming, and two full coats of a quality product, while another covers a quick single coat. Always compare the scope, preparation, products, and number of coats, not just the bottom line.

A strong estimate names the surfaces being painted, the preparation and repairs involved, the specific products and sheens, the number of coats, and what is excluded. Clear written scope protects both you and the contractor and prevents misunderstandings once the project is underway.

Yes. Even the most expensive paint will fail over dirt, chalky residue, glossy surfaces, or loose coatings. Cleaning, sanding, repairing, caulking, and priming where needed determine how well paint bonds, and most premature paint failures trace back to skipped or rushed preparation.

The most common causes are moisture, poor adhesion, and incompatible coatings. Water entering from behind siding, painting over dirty or glossy surfaces, applying paint in high humidity, or putting latex over unprepared oil paint can all cause failure. Fixing the cause matters more than recoating.

Yes, but only with proper preparation. Latex applied directly over oil-based paint often peels because it cannot grip the hard, glossy surface. We test existing coatings, clean and degloss the surface, and apply a bonding primer so the new finish adheres properly.

Lighting, sheen, surrounding colors, and the size of the painted area all change how color appears. A small chip under store lighting rarely matches a full wall in natural daylight. Large samples viewed at different times of day give the most accurate preview.

Light Reflectance Value measures how much light a color reflects, from 0 for black to 100 for pure white. Higher LRV colors brighten darker rooms, while lower LRV colors absorb light and feel cozier. Checking LRV helps you predict how a color will behave before you commit.

Paint may feel dry within hours, but full curing takes much longer, often two to four weeks. During curing, the film is still hardening, so avoid scrubbing walls, hanging heavy décor, or placing items on freshly painted shelves and cabinets until the finish fully sets.

Touch-ups can show because of sheen differences, aged paint, or a different application method than the original coat. This effect, called flashing, is more noticeable with higher sheens. Sometimes repainting a wall corner to corner produces a cleaner result than spot touch-ups.

That is usually surfactant leaching, which happens when moisture or humidity reaches latex paint before it cures. Ingredients rise to the surface and leave streaks. At 1910 Paint Company, we see this often in humid Wilmington, North Carolina homes. It typically washes off with warm water and does not damage the paint. 

Caulk seals gaps around trim, windows, and siding joints, stopping water and air from getting behind surfaces. Using paintable, flexible caulk creates clean lines and prevents moisture damage. Silicone caulk should never be used where paint is applied, since paint will not stick to it.

Watch for chalky residue that rubs off on your hand, fading on sun-facing walls, cracked or missing caulk, peeling edges, and bare wood. Catching these signs early means simpler preparation and lower costs than waiting until wood begins to deteriorate.

High-traffic areas like hallways, kitchens, and kids' rooms may need repainting every three to five years, while bedrooms and formal spaces often last much longer. Ceilings rarely need frequent repainting unless water stains, smoke, or cracks appear on the surface.

Often, yes. Deep colors may need additional coats for even coverage and can show lap marks if applied improperly. On exteriors, dark colors absorb more heat, which can warp vinyl siding unless a heat-reflective, vinyl-safe formula is used.

Both can be painted successfully with the right approach. Vinyl requires thorough cleaning and vinyl-safe colors to prevent warping. Brick should be clean, dry, and coated with a breathable masonry product so trapped moisture does not cause peeling or deterioration.

No. Mildew continues growing through new paint if it is not removed and killed first. We clean affected areas with mildew-killing solutions, let surfaces dry completely, and use mildew-resistant coatings. Improving ventilation or sunlight exposure also helps prevent it from returning.

This practice, called boxing, blends several gallons into one container to eliminate slight color variations between cans. Even gallons tinted from the same formula can differ subtly, and boxing ensures uniform color across large walls, ceilings, and exterior surfaces.

Water stains, smoke damage, marker, rust, and natural wood tannins can migrate through standard latex paint. These problems require a dedicated stain-blocking primer, often oil-based or shellac-based, to seal them in before the finish coats are applied.

Paint protects surfaces but cannot fix underlying problems. Leaks, failed flashing, poor drainage, or rotted wood must be addressed first, or the new finish will fail quickly. With 38 years of experience in Wilmington, North Carolina, 1910 Paint Company identifies these issues before painting so your investment lasts.